Fresh - Faced

Just how far are you willing to go for that youthful glow?

by Stephanie Macdonald

Beauty is only skin deep; it’s in the eye of the beholder; it is but a flower, which wrinkles will devour… Whichever cliché you subscribe to, it’s hard not to notice the abundance of people—mostly women—in every chic restaurant and posh shopping boulevard who sport disconcertingly frozen expressions of placidity, permanently surprised eyebrows, and duck lips.

Interestingly, though, while aesthetic medicine used to be the domain of pricey plastic surgeons with a tenuous grasp of the Hippocratic oath, these days a less-radical, less-invasive generation of anti-aging treatments is being practised by everyone from highly respected dermatologists to naturopaths.

Graceful acceptance of the aging process is the cheapest and probably most effective way to happiness. But in the interests of those of us who aren’t quite there yet, here’s the lowdown on those non-surgical “rejuvenating” procedures we’re always hearing about.

Botox
For those who have been residing in a cave for the last five years, Botox is a derivative of the botulism toxin that, when injected into areas on the face, temporarily freezes the muscles there for a more relaxed countenance and prevention of future wrinkles. It must be re-administered every six months or so.

Pros: It is effective, preventative, relatively affordable, and proven safe when (and this is very important) administered by an expert. No downtime.

Cons: Naturopaths still think it is bad to inject yourself with poison (or any non-natural substance) for any reason. Also, you could end up looking like a Stepford Wife or stroke victim if not injected correctly (but only for six months or so!).

Dermal fillers
Known as Perlane and Restylane, fillers work by adding volume with an inert material to plump up wrinkles and lips, or reshape imbalances in the face such as in the correction of a crooked or bumped nose. Fillers last a varying, but limited, time, usually from six months to two years.

Pros: They work immediately and can provide surgery-like results, especially used in conjunction with Botox.

Cons: See Botox. Also, without proper application, in the words of one doctor, “You can end up looking like you just got out of a pond somewhere.”

Laser treatments, focused ultra sound, intense pulsed light, and radiofrequency treatments
These complex treatments (IPL, Thermage, Fraxel, Palomar Starlux, to name a few) can penetrate beyond the epidermis to the layer of collagen that breaks down as we age and stimulate the production of more collagen, for tighter, younger-looking skin. Lasers can also target dark spots, destroying the cells and removing the pigment, and can resurface the top layers of the skin, removing small wrinkles, scars, and sun damage.

Pros: The most effective therapy, with often quite dramatic results, especially on people with acne scars, wrinkles, rosacea, and age spots. Even some naturopaths are offering laser (“light-based”) treatments to patients.

Cons: Expensive. Recovery time and results vary. Certain treatments can be quite uncomfortable.

Dermabrasion and facial peels
Involves using crystals or mild acids to deeply exfoliate the epidermis to remove dead skin and wear away scars and age spots. These treatments can be done with organic or non-organic materials.

Pros: Inexpensive, readily available, no side effects.

Cons: Not as effective as lasers; can be mildly uncomfortable.

Facial fitness or rejuvenation
Used mainly by natural practitioners, this technique involves stimulating the facial muscles with a TENS machine to become more toned, thereby holding the skin up better. Also used on stubborn cellulite.

Pros: Natural, with no side effects.

Cons: Many sessions are needed to see results.

Cosmetic acupuncture
Works by removing toxins and encouraging cell reproduction, increasing circulation, and stimulating collagen production.

Pros: Can also increase the body’s natural chi (life force), increasing overall health and a strong stress response.

Cons: Results vary; monthly maintenance treatments required.

Cosmetic dentistry
Over the years, teeth can wear down, significantly changing the shape of the jawline and exacerbating wrinkles and sagging of the facial skin. By rebuilding the teeth and jaw to a youthful state, the skin is stretched more naturally and the face looks younger. Also, laser whitening can dramatically and easily take years off a smile.

Pros: Can improve overall health by restoring
normal function to the jaw. Immediate results.

Cons: Can be expensive, and veneers have to be properly maintained or they break.

The “natural” vs. “unnatural” distinction is abstract, so it is up to an individual to determine her or his own threshold for technology and invasiveness. The most pronounced benefit of a naturopathic approach, such as that offered at Integrative Healing Arts or by Dr. Maria Fabbro, is that, by approaching the process of aging from a holistic and systemic point of view, it’s possible to simultaneously invigorate both the outside and inside of the body. You end up looking and feeling better, and avoiding duck lips altogether.
In the end, there’s a Spanish proverb we might all want to embrace: “Health and cheerfulness make beauty.”

Stephanie MacDonald is a Vancouver writer who worries that stressing about wrinkles will turn them into a self-fulfilling prophecy.